Wednesday, November 10, 2010

Object Design


Boomerang by Chanel Sport, 2007

Object Design is the advance consideration of the function and form of three dimentional artefacts. The term "object" is different from "product" which normally means something mass produced for sale. "Object Design" is a wider more general term that includes prototypes or art works and a full range of original, singular design items.

Object Design has a flexibility usability tradeoff. The more flexible a design, the more limited each of its uses. A common design mistake is to make something more flexible. Personal computers are a great example of multi-purpose devices in which the designer cannot predict how much aspects will be used. The more people use products the more they become familiar with uses and eventually some aspects are emphasized, resulting in specialization such as the i-pod.

The Swiss Army Knife, originated in 1897, gives flexibility but the actual use of each tool is limited, even less useable as the tool increases in flexibility.


Mimicry is copying aspects from nature or existing objects to increase usability and likeability. Surface mimicry concerns patterns and appearances. Behavioral mimicry is designing an object to act like something, such as a robotic dog or crying doll, normally toys because it cannot replace the original function. Functional mimicry is when something looks and functions like the other such as a telephone/calculator keypad.

This toy truck demonstrates behavioral mimicry but not functional mimicry because it cannot perform the same way as one of real scale.


Prototyping is a process for all aspects of design. Concept prototyping is common for large or projected designs such as cars. Throwaway prototyping is simply a model. Evolutionary prototyping is common to software and technology where there are new generations without a final product.



Stylists are essential to the presentation of a finished object. Stylists work as mediators between product designers and photographers or advertising agencies. A stylist may work with one designer to give a clean studio feel to a product. Or a stylist may work with many products to create an overall look. Victoria Granoff is a well known food stylist for Vogue and other publications.

John Heskett describes that in object design the general emphasis is designers giving “too much meaning” to products. This follows the trend of decreased use value increased mythical vale that we learned about with Marx and Guy Debord’s Society of the Spectacle. In product design, Philippe Starck is well known for inventive "artistic" objects. He created the useless “Juicy Salif” in 1990. MOMA acquired it and it has been gold plated.


However an innovative aesthetic can transform an object forever. The new Dyson fan released in 2009 is a bladeless version that replaces the noisy clutter of the bladed version that has been in use over 100 years.

Porsche was an engineer who created the Volkswagon Beetle and Porsche and other items with his grandson Ferdinand following in influential design. The luxury 1950’s Porsche distinguished itself from the Beetle with a more streamline design. Below 1957 & 1954.



It was Giorgetto Giugiaro that revolutionized cars with the hatchback concept in 1974 for Volkswagen and then in 1978, the Megagamma minivan for Lancia.



Many recent concept cars suggest different directions for car design. The Mercedes F-Cell Roadster, 2009, returns to the original Mercedes buggy format but is solar and electricity powered.



Jinyoung Jo, a talented car designer at Hong-ik University in South Korea created the Chanel Fiole concept.




The GM Car Hero was the winner for the 2009 Car Design Challenge projected for 2030. It would be an automated vehicle that allows drivers/rider to play video games.




Dieter Rams is famous for his object design for Braun. He believed products should provide quiet efficient service that emphasize a black and white color palette, well known for audio equipment which directly influenced the iPod.


Jonathan Ive designed the colorful iMacs in 1998. The Powerbook G4 was first introduced in 2001.



IDEO is an important product design consultancy. It was founded in the 1990’s as a global design initiative in London, San Fran, Palo Alto, Chicago, Boston, Tokyo. It functions as a consultancy to allows products extended prototyping and market testing as well as re-design. The emphasis is on problem solving.



The approach to designing small objects if different than for large systems. While tacit knowledge, what is learned through time and practice, helps small design, large scale design is supported by engineering and other concrete knowledge. The Aeron chair for Herman Miller required knowledge of the human body form to work properly.


Here are a few more examples of iconic chair design. See the complete history of chair design



Mies Van De Rohe, Barcelona Chair, 1929


Dali, 1938


Eero Aarnio, Ball Chair, 1966, and Bubble Chair, 1968 produced through Adelta and Vitra


The creation of the first chair from one sheet of plastic was revolutionary. Read the monobloc plastic chair story.




Vico Magistretti, "Selene" chair by produced in 1969, the first one-piece plastic chair and Verner Panton, Panton S Chair, 1973, produced through Vitra



Louis XVI Chair 1770's and Philippe Starck Louis Ghost Chair, 2008 produced by Kartell

Droog Group, Dutch Designer Juergen Bey’s Tree Trunk bench, 2000

Sometimes design is fulfilling consumer dreams/demands as in the Kohler overflow bathtub for the fullest experience. Products can also be part of accidents, consumers making new use of them or new chance materials like the glue on the 3M post-its. Ikea showed that consumers were willing to build. Technology is a challenge for designer because it is always changing. Accessibility to object design is important and poor consideration of those with disabilities can block products from release. Adaptability is key for the future with increases in smart chips/products and customization for users.

Fashion designers can also extend into object design through innovative accessories. For Fall 2009 Chanel debuted a new line of luxurious mink-covered scooter helmets with built-in iPod capability. The over-the-top accessories were created in collaboration with French luxury helmet maker les Atleiers Ruby & Apple. The are road legal with carbon fiber shells and lambskin lining with iPod connection.



Some iconic object designs include the Sony Walkman which emerged into dominance in the late 1970's through the 1980's. The device, which grew increasingly smaller, gave personalized portable music to the masses. See the award winning commercial campaign.


Swatch is another iconic object design. It was based on the "second watch" idea of offering something affordable and durable for everyday use. It also used it's Swiss heritage to give it global appeal. It began very simple and in time grew in variety of color and style.

An original Swiss ski campaign and the Swatch revision

Sneaker design is one example of an object revolution in the 20th century. From Converse to Nike and the diversification of the 1990's, sneakers have become product, fashion and status.

Converse was first produced in 1917 and popularized by basketball player Chuck Taylor.


Puma and Adidas were started by the Dassler brothers who were divided over Hitler during World War II. Read the full story here.


In 1985, Air Jordans transformed Nike from running shoe to superstar basketball shoe, which then entered into fashion and hip hop culture. There have been 23 official versions of the Air Jordan with many other adaptations. Visit the site.



Artist Ken Courtney immortalized Air Jordans in gold for his project Indulgences, 2008.


ALife is a shoe store in the lower east side of Manhattan that specializes in luxury sneakers.



Wednesday, November 3, 2010

The Fashion System & Designers


Bryant Park in NYC, Fashion Week took place here for decades

In his essay "Fashion Cycle, Fashion Process," Fred Davis describes fashion as a large cultural system. The author is addressing the social phenomenon known as “fashion,” which is not the production of clothing but the turnover of style. He suggests there is a cycle which is the change of style and a process which is the interactions of designers and the world. He compares fashion to the stock market, with fluctuating social value that quickly changes. He identifies fashion as Western with the trend to change increasing after World War II. Capitalism, consumer affluence, less class boundaries and increased media have contributed to fashion as a system.

In present society we see “fashion pluralism,” which not one dominate trend but many different popular styles.Those styles are adaptable for appropriateness for different situations and local subcultural groups. “Trickle down” theory is the original Marxist theory of fashion that the higher classes determine what is good and over time the lower classes follow. The idea is not as true today since people use clothing to communicate not just class but other values such as ethnicity, subcultures, etc. “Collective Selection” theory is the idea that there is a collective conscious/unconscious that guides fashion. People want to stay connected to the times and fashion is one way.


Designers Then & Now
The following are examples of the major design houses that have continued into the 21st century. Leading the design for an existing house means honoring the existing aesthetic.

CHANEL



Karl Lagerfeld was born in Germany during World War II. He moved to Paris and worked for various designers such as Chloe and Fendi. He came to Chanel in 1983. He honors Chanel by using tweed and emphasizing suits and black and white, but he brings new life to the brand through accessories. He is an important example of designer as creative director as he does many things such as shoot the ad campaigns.


F 2009




DIOR



When Christian Dior died in 1957, he advised owners to hire 21 year old Yves Saint Laurent. Yves Saint Laurent would lead the house for only 3 years before he was drafted into the Algerian war and returned to found his own house which brought him fame.


YSL at Dior in 1960

Since 1996, John Galliano has been leading Dior. Like Lagerfeld, Galliano must honor Dior in his design.




F 2009

Galliano also has his own label for which he takes more risks. The article "Galliano the Master Showman," describes the carnival of Galliano's Spring 2006 show.




BALENCIAGA
Cristobal Balenciaga began as a seamstress for the Spanish aristocracy. He moved to Paris during the Spanish civil war and then influenced the fashion world until his death in 1972.


Balenciaga single seam wedding gown in 1968 and Ghesquiere for Balenciaga, hat in 2008

Nicolas Ghesquiere interned at agnes b. He assisted Gaultier, then in 1997 at age 25, he began directing Balenciaga. In 2000, he was named avant-garde designer of the year at the VHI/Vogue Fashion Awards and in 2001, he was named Womenswear Designer of the Year by the CFDA.


ITALY


Most Italian brands such as Gucci and Prada were associated with travel and leather goods such as luggage and shoes. During the 1990’s, American Tom Ford took over Gucci and revitalized the brand. He minimized the clothes and emphasized simplicity with sexuality. Ford now has his own label and since 2004, Frida Giannini directs the creative vision of Gucci. Both Ford and Giannini honored Gucci with leather goods but have very different aesthetics.

Gucci under Tom Ford F 2002

Gucci under Giannini F 2008

Muccia Prada began directing Prada and started Miu Miu after her nickname, both which she continues to direct, emphasizing cuts and more use of patterns than other designers.


F 2009

USA

The US came of age in fashion during the 80's wen Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan and Calvin Klein dominated.


Many young designers have emerged in New York to create their own labels.

Proenza Schouler was founded in 2002 by Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough who met at Parsons. They had interned with Kors and Marc Jacobs. They won the CFDA award for new talent in 2003. They include both menswear and womenswear. They are known for simplicity and dark neutral colors with close fits.

F 2009

Alexander Wang is originally from San Francisco. He is also a Parsons grad and winner of the 2008 CFDA Womenswear award, after only beginning in 2007! His work emphasizes sexy cuts, bold neutrals and black. He has recently started designing for men.


S 2010

Rodarte is the team brand by Kate and Laura Mulleavy began in 2005. The sisters are from Pasedena but show in New York. They won the CFDA 2009 Womens wear designer of the year. They have also had personal support from Anna Wintour and have already collaborated for Gap and Target. They are known for unexpected, elegant feminine forms in a muted palette.

S 2008

Additional designers

In the article "Hussein Chalayan, Fashion and Technology," Bradley Quinn explains Chalayan's technology for the body. The designs create environments around the wearers.




In the article “Flash Trash: Gianni Versace and the theory and practice of glamour” Reka Buckley and Stephen Gundle look back at Versace of the 90's as driven by hype instead of design. The design label was built through contrived glamour and celebrity associations.


The New York Times profile of Ann Demeulemeester calls her a "warrior woman," and positions her as part of the legacy of the Antwerp 6. He womens and mens wear is designed with consideration to detail and emphasis on deconstruction and the color black.