The Fashion System & Designers

Bryant Park in NYC, Fashion Week took place here for decades

In his essay "Fashion Cycle, Fashion Process," Fred Davis describes fashion as a large cultural system. The author is addressing the social phenomenon known as “fashion,” which is not the production of clothing but the turnover of style. He suggests there is a cycle which is the change of style and a process which is the interactions of designers and the world. He compares fashion to the stock market, with fluctuating social value that quickly changes. He identifies fashion as Western with the trend to change increasing after World War II. Capitalism, consumer affluence, less class boundaries and increased media have contributed to fashion as a system.

In present society we see “fashion pluralism,” which not one dominate trend but many different popular styles.Those styles are adaptable for appropriateness for different situations and local subcultural groups. “Trickle down” theory is the original Marxist theory of fashion that the higher classes determine what is good and over time the lower classes follow. The idea is not as true today since people use clothing to communicate not just class but other values such as ethnicity, subcultures, etc. “Collective Selection” theory is the idea that there is a collective conscious/unconscious that guides fashion. People want to stay connected to the times and fashion is one way.

Designers Then & Now

The following are examples of the major design houses that have continued into the 21st century. Leading the design for an existing house means honoring the existing aesthetic.

CHANEL

Karl Lagerfeld was born in Germany during World War II. He moved to Paris and worked for various designers such as Chloe and Fendi. He came to Chanel in 1983. He honors Chanel by using tweed and emphasizing suits and black and white, but he brings new life to the brand through accessories. He is an important example of designer as creative director as he does many things such as shoot the ad campaigns.

F 2009

DIOR

When Christian Dior died in 1957, he advised owners to hire 21 year old Yves Saint Laurent. Yves Saint Laurent would lead the house for only 3 years before he was drafted into the Algerian war and returned to found his own house which brought him fame.

YSL at Dior in 1960

Since 1996, John Galliano has been leading Dior. Like Lagerfeld, Galliano must honor Dior in his design.

F 2009

Galliano also has his own label for which he takes more risks. The article "Galliano the Master Showman," describes the carnival of Galliano's Spring 2006 show.

BALENCIAGA

Cristobal Balenciaga began as a seamstress for the Spanish aristocracy. He moved to Paris during the Spanish civil war and then influenced the fashion world until his death in 1972.

Balenciaga single seam wedding gown in 1968 and Ghesquiere for Balenciaga, hat in 2008

Nicolas Ghesquiere interned at agnes b. He assisted Gaultier, then in 1997 at age 25, he began directing Balenciaga. In 2000, he was named avant-garde designer of the year at the VHI/Vogue Fashion Awards and in 2001, he was named Womenswear Designer of the Year by the CFDA.

ITALY

Most Italian brands such as Gucci and Prada were associated with travel and leather goods such as luggage and shoes. During the 1990’s, American Tom Ford took over Gucci and revitalized the brand. He minimized the clothes and emphasized simplicity with sexuality. Ford now has his own label and since 2004, Frida Giannini directs the creative vision of Gucci. Both Ford and Giannini honored Gucci with leather goods but have very different aesthetics.

Gucci under Tom Ford F 2002

Gucci under Giannini F 2008

Muccia Prada began directing Prada and started Miu Miu after her nickname, both which she continues to direct, emphasizing cuts and more use of patterns than other designers.

F 2009

USA

The US came of age in fashion during the 80's wen Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan and Calvin Klein dominated.

Many young designers have emerged in New York to create their own labels.

Proenza Schouler was founded in 2002 by Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough who met at Parsons. They had interned with Kors and Marc Jacobs. They won the CFDA award for new talent in 2003. They include both menswear and womenswear. They are known for simplicity and dark neutral colors with close fits.

F 2009

Alexander Wang is originally from San Francisco. He is also a Parsons grad and winner of the 2008 CFDA Womenswear award, after only beginning in 2007! His work emphasizes sexy cuts, bold neutrals and black. He has recently started designing for men.

S 2010

Rodarte is the team brand by Kate and Laura Mulleavy began in 2005. The sisters are from Pasedena but show in New York. They won the CFDA 2009 Womens wear designer of the year. They have also had personal support from Anna Wintour and have already collaborated for Gap and Target. They are known for unexpected, elegant feminine forms in a muted palette.

S 2008

Additional designers

In the article "Hussein Chalayan, Fashion and Technology," Bradley Quinn explains Chalayan's technology for the body. The designs create environments around the wearers.

In the article “Flash Trash: Gianni Versace and the theory and practice of glamour” Reka Buckley and Stephen Gundle look back at Versace of the 90's as driven by hype instead of design. The design label was built through contrived glamour and celebrity associations.

The New York Times profile of Ann Demeulemeester calls her a "warrior woman," and positions her as part of the legacy of the Antwerp 6. He womens and mens wear is designed with consideration to detail and emphasis on deconstruction and the color black.