Fashion Design

Designing for the human body is the basis of fashion. And despite contemporary complaints about the size of fashion models, the waist to hip ratio is a measurement that determines ideal presentation. The measurement results from dividing the waist measurement by the hip measurement. Change in style has not changed the preference for women with a .7 ratio and men with a .9. The exact same ratio can be found in ancient times as in today's models and it is the measurement used by designers to create sample sizes. Adel Rootstein mannequins are also based on this measurement.

Ancient Greeks were known for their simple one piece linen tunics. Changes in the tunic in terms of amount of fabric and folds occurred very slowly over centuries. The look was continued by Romans and the Greco-Roman look is still referenced by contemporary designers.

Ancient Egyptians also wore simple one piece linen tunics but emphasized accessories. The ancient Egyptians loved ornamentation, and all forms of jewellery, including necklaces, rings, anklets and bracelets. Designed, crafted and worn with great thought and care, jewellery was valued not only for its beauty and precious metals, but also for the magical and spiritual protection it was thought to give the wearer.

Ancient Chinese also wore tunics but with use of silk fabrics. The early development of wood block printing resulted in earlier evidence of patterned fabrics. Special clothing was associated with ceremonies and beginning in 1000, women bound their feet. This is the origin of the story of Cinderella.

By the late 1300’s the European aristocracy invested in fabrics and emphasized the change of clothing for the courts. Servants maintained the same look in all situations. They received their clothing as a “livery” or payment.

By the 1500’s portraits began to record European fashion, though it was the best fashion of the era. During this time, clothing was tailored to the person with each ensemble completely unique while servants were still dressed in similar looks.

The origin of branded fashion design is given to Charles Frederick Worth, a draper and the first person to use a label in his custom tailored clothes in 1858. The idea of making labeled ready to wear clothing for the mass market did not peak however until after World War II.

STEPS IN FASHION DESIGN

1. Inspiration!

Isaac Mizrahi selected this painting by Wayne Thibault

The start of your work may be inspriation from something natural, a general archetype, a specific story or person, or a personal event. Keep in mind that having a vision for your design over time is not the same as a seasonal vision.

2. Research

Consider the mood you are developing and create a color palette with image sources. You may have a unique concept or you can take one specific thing, as in the example of Warhole below and re-contextualize it.

3. Sketching

Making a sketch by hand or on computer provides a reference point. Some designers hire expert draftsmen.

4. Sourcing fabrics

The fabric may actually be the starting place for your design as fabric is often an inspiration. But you want to choose fabric early in the design process in order to make accommodations for the type of fabric.

5. Patterns & samples

Whether by hand or on computer you need to create a pattern and initial sample. Like sketching, some top designers work with professional pattern makers.

6. Production

If you would like to produce more than a single collection, you will need to supervise the production. This may require visiting a factory.

7. Presentation

In this step you may present initial samples or early production. You use a showroom and eventually a retail space to reach buyers. You also produce a look book or website to reach a wider audience. Above is the complete package for Ralph Lauren from showroom to retail to Wimbledon look book.

8. Show

Either before or after you present your clothes in a showroom, you will present them to a larger audience on the runway. The music, lighting, hair and make-up are all an extension of your vision. Read the history of the runway.

9. Business management

Fashion is a business and if you work solo you will have to supervise the marketing and finances. If you have a financial backer, it will allow you to focus on the next season.